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The HomecomingThursday June 19, 2008

Destination: hometown. I have travelled to several cities outside my home country. I almost forgot that Indonesia is such a big country. One either has to fly or go by ship to move to another island in Indonesia. So, the past 3 days I spent on taking annual leave, away from the hustle and bustle of this hectic city into the peace and fresh air of Bukittinggi, the hometown of my beloved wife
. The city is situated, like the name implies in Bahasa Indonesia, high above sea level, making the air cool and fresh with mountainous areas. It takes about 2 hours drive from the Minangkabau International Airport in Padang -my own hometown- to Bukittinggi. It takes a lot of skills and guts to drive from Padang to Bukittinggi. It's not a straight highway. It's a long road of many winding turns, cliffs, steep ups and downs. It's okay if all cars are fast. The challenge comes when there's a truck in front of you. You have to time well if you want to pass by the truck you go uphill. If the oncoming traffic is heavy, you get to wait about half an hour for a chance to pass by the truck!

Okay, enough with the traffic situation. I just like to mention that because during my stay, I got to drive the road from Padang - Bukttinggi on the day I arrived and on the last day of my staying there. Unlike other travel I made to other countries, this journey I made is purely for fun only, no official mission. Well, I have only one mission: to have fun.

If you are not familiar with West Sumatra, it is located in the western part of Sumatra *duh* with Padang as the capital city of the province. Since Padang now has Minangkabau International Airport, you shouldn't worry too much about travelling from outside Indonesia. I have checked that this Airport serves airlines from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Padang, being a coastal city, is not as cool as Bukittinggi. Both cities are tourist destinations. However, you can't expect too much with the administration when you arrive here. I will tell you later about this.

Just like any other Asian countries, West Sumatran food is also spicy and chilli hot. West Sumatra is known for Krupuk Sanjai Balado, some kind of crackers made from cassava and soured with chilli spice. It is also known for rendang, made from beef. When come to the cities, make sure you dress properly. Being very religious city, you'd notice that in 1km drive, you'll find more than 2 mosques. West Sumatra is known for its religious state. Being a domestic tourist, I find it quite funny to hear local people speak to one another. It's like I'm in another country, but I'm not. I'm from here. I understand the language. In fact, most people would understand because West Sumatrans speak language which is somewhat similar to Malay, the root of Bahasa Indonesia.

Another thing you'd notice is the roof of most houses or buildings in both cities. Minangkabau comprises of two words: minang which means win and kabau which means bull. Hence, you'd notice that houses and government buildings are built with roof depicting bull horn: pointed. Traditional houses of Minangkabau is called Rumah Gadang or Big House. The kind of architecture with pointy roof is called bagonjong.

Danau Maninjau

On the first day, I visited Danau Maninjau and Danau Singkarak. Danau Maninjau is a lake situated in Maninjau district. It takes about 1 hour drive from Bukittinggi. If you think driving from Padang to Bukittinggi is a challenge, you'll find that driving from Bukittinggi to Maninjau is even more challenging. To reach the destination, you have to go through the road which was built by the Dutch legacy: Kelok 44. Kelok means turn; 44 is the number of turns you have to go through in Kelok 44. When I talk about turn really means sharp turn and downhill. I don't think buses can go on this road. It is too narrow and way to steep. I wonder why they don't build straight road from uphill down to the lake. May be because it will be too steep? I don't know.

Danau (in English: Lake) Maninjau is a volcanic lake; it is the 11th largest lake in Indonesia. People go to this lake to appraise its peacefulness and enjoy the scenery. This lake is not for swimming may be due to its depth and the fact that it is a volcanic lake. You can go on a rented boat, though. The Lake is also used by the State to produce power. There is a power plant in one of the part of the lake.

So, next time you need a driving challenge with peacefulness reward, go to Danau Maninjau and have a rest in Danau Maninjau. Enjoy the scenery.

Danau Singkarak

Still on the first day, I visited Danau Singkarak. I have to go through Kelok 44 again; this time we go uphill. The road to Danau Singkarak is less challenging than that of Kelok 44. It's a long drive, but the scenery is rewarding. The Lake is so large that you'd think you are at a beach. With lots of coconut trees at the beach, you'll almost forgot that you are actually at a lake. With 107.8km square, the Lake is larger than Danau Maninjau.

There is a spot where the beach is so slope that you can stand in the water and enjoy the coolness of the water. The other end of the lake is so far that you need a binocular to see it. It's such a huge lake.

Arau Waterfall

Ever dream to go to Grand Canyon? If it's too far for you, you can enjoy valley scenery in Arau Valley; the venue I visited on the second day. Before entering a place where you can enjoy the soothing sound of waterfall, you'll pass by a toll gate. Don't expect you'll pay government official price. Like I have mentioned earlier, don't expect too much with official administration. It's such a shame that beautiful places with potencies are neglected by the local government administration. We paid the toll but we didn't get any receipt. Oh well, we didn't have time arguing something that is common practice in this country. And we were not going to let anything ruining our vacation for a small Rp.10,000 (equal to USD 1).

There are people live in villages in the valley, so you might want to drive slowly in the area. Just follow the road and enjoy the scenery. Enjoy the magnificent colours of rocks like it was splitted by incredibly sharp and strong blade.

Air Manis Beach (a.k.a Malin Kundang Beach)

A local myth has it that there was a young boy who was nurtured with love by his mother. They lived a poor live. Then, the boy grew up and decided to take on a challenge and tried his fortune to do business in another place. As luck would have it, he met this pretty and rich girl. He succeeded in business and married this girl. One day, he returned to his hometown. Being rich and glamorous and married to such rich and beautiful wife, he met his old mother. His mother, still lived a poor live, came to him in sloppy appearance, like a beggar. She was excited knowin that his beloved son returned to his hometown. However, he was such a shame of admitting that the old lady was her mother. He screamed to her and threw her mother away from his door. Hurt by this, his mother condemn his son and prayed to God to turn his son into stone. And God heard the prayer and turned the son into stone. The boy's name was Malin Kundang. He regretted that he scolded his mother in such ungrateful way. But, regret always comes last. While he was putting his head down asking for mercy from his mother, his body turned stone cold.

Right now, if you visit the beach, you still can see a rock depicting a man's body putting head down to the floor. In the surroundings, the rocks depict of somewhat seems to be ship wreck.

I guess the story has strong moral in it. Indonesians value family so much. We are taught to appraise our mother who raised and nurtured us as a child. We should not scold or defy everything she asks us to do. We must always obey her.

I didn't have a chance to prove whether the Malin Kundang rock is really rock or cemented in such a way to form a man's body. But still, the moral of the story is really pointed out well.

The beach itself is like anyother beach. There is an island not really far from the beach. I didn't go there, but I guess one can walk there.

Air Manis beach is located not far from Padang. It takes about half an hour drive from Padang. This is the last place I visited on the last day of my staying in West Sumatra.

Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Valley) and Japanese Cave

During the independence war, the Japanese built caves for battling with the Dutch. This historical caves is situated in Sianok Valley. I didn't get a chance to explore the cave because one has to take the stairs to go down; and it was said that there were hundreds of them and you have to take the same stairs to go up and it was my departure day :P

Being located in the city, you can easily find Ngarai Sianok with its peculiar scenery.

Souvenirs

If you want to buy some souvenirs for your friends and family, Bukittinggi is the place. There are two markets which are known for souvenirs and traditional food here: Pasar Atas and Pasar Bawah. Near these markets is the well-known Jam Gadang or Big Clock. The one thing unique about this clock is that the numbers on the face is in roman numbers. Note that the number 4 is represented in IIII, not IV.

If you want to buy Krupuk Sanjai Balado, Kipang, key chains, t-shirts, gimmicks or anything to prove that you've been here, go to Pasar Atas and/ or Pasar Bawah. Don't forget to bargain or you'll pay higher prices.

So, if you are looking for exotic places with beautiful green scenery and driving challenge, West Sumatra is the place. If you decide to stay in Bukittinggi, don't forget to bring your jumper; it's quite cold here. On the other hand, if you decide to just stay in Padang, wear something for the summer. Being a coastal city, Padang is quite hot and busy. Whichever you decide, West Sumatra is an alternative destination to the well known tourist place.

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